Known as one of the harshest places on earth, Namibia’s Skeleton Coast has received a variety of foreboding titles, from ‘The Gates of Hell’ by the Portuguese to ‘The land God made in Anger’ by Namibia’s Bushmen tribes. Dorine Reinstein takes a closer look at what’s on offer.

1. About the Skeleton Coast

Although the Skeleton’s Coast’s landscape is undoubtedly arid and unforgiving, it is also beautiful with vast blue skies, red dunes and almost surreal vistas. Now a national park, the Skeleton Coast is divided into a northern and southern section by rivers.

“This incredible area is so vast, and diverse that it requires a minimum three-night stay to fully experience it,” says Chris Roche, Wilderness Safaris. “Four, or even more, is preferable”.  He explains that while the camp is located along the linear oasis of the Hoanib River and that many of the activities take place along its course – whether meandering through ancient mountains, or under the pivotal Ana Trees, or into the floodplain that marks the end of its surface course – you also need sufficient time to explore the gravel plains and isolated freshwater springs away from the river, and a full day to traverse the dune field and its oases before reaching the Skeleton Coast and its wrecks and seal colonies. Wildlife to be seen includes desert-adapted elephant and giraffe in almost lunar landscapes, as well as oryx, springbok, and even (rarely) the wide-ranging, hardy lions of the region and secretive brown hyaena.

1. Things to see…

Cape Cross

Cape Cross got its name from the cross placed there by the Portuguese explorer, Diego Câo in 1486 in honour of King Johannes of Portugal.

The cross that stands on the spot today is a replica of the original, erected in 1980, to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the initial landing. The original cross was removed in 1893, by a German sailor, Captain Becker, and has yet to be returned.

Cape Cross Seal Reserve

The main attraction for tourists at Cape Cross is undoubtedly the seal colony, which is the breeding place of the Cape fur seals. Along the Namibian and South African coast there are 24 colonies with a seal population of about 650 000 animals, 80 000 to 100 000 of which live at Cape Cross.

On a 200m walkway made of recycled plastic, travellers can get up close and personal with the seals. A word of warning: this activity can be quite smelly.

Shipwrecks

The remains of shipwrecks are scattered along the coast and bear witness to the many ships that have ended up along the shores. Although travellers will be able to see a number of shipwrecks on a self-drive excursion, for the best views they’ll need to visit the park either on a fly-in safari or a scenic flight.

The Eduard Bohlen (1907) is one of the most well-known shipwrecks in Namibia thanks to its location in the middle of the desert, about 500m from the ocean. Years after the ship ran aground the desert began to encroach on the ocean and the ship that was once stranded in the ocean slowly became stranded in the desert.

Möwe Bay Museum

The Möwe Bay Museum on the Skeleton Coast features numerous skeletons and skulls of whales, dolphins, porpoises, turtles, even a crocodile skull and a human skull. Visitors will also be able to see a lot of other mementos collected along the Skeleton Coast.

Roaring Dunes

Wherever you are on the Skeleton Coast, dunes are a part of the landscape. The coastal dunes here are one of the only places in the world where visitors can experience the phenomenon of ‘roaring dunes’, where a storm of sand grains and air creates a rumble as loud as a low-flying plane.

1. Things to do…

Horse riding safaris

Horse riding safaris through inaccessible and rugged Damaraland are reserved for experienced riders but are certainly worthwhile. From Twyfelfontein to Cape Cross on the Skeleton Coast, the sheer remoteness of this challenging horse riding safari will allow riders to see elephant, rhino and even lion.  Visitors will visit the San Rock Engravings and the Aba Huab watershed, as well as the Huab and Ugab Rivers.

For more information: Namibia Horse Safari Company.

Angling

The Skeleton Coast and, more specifically, Torra Bay and Terrace Bay, is a haven for anglers.

Torra Bay is only open during December and January. There are only camping facilities, but the shore-based fishing is excellent. Anyone staying here must be totally self- sufficient, though during the holiday season petrol and basic groceries are available.

Terrace Bay is open throughout the year, and offers some of the best angling on Namibia's coastline. Fishing permits are essential by law, and anglers must read the Fishing Act to know how many, and what sort of fish they can catch, how they can transport them home, and in what form.

Travellers can only visit these two sites if a reservation is made through Namibia Wildlife Resorts at:

Tel +264 (0) 61 285 7200. No day visits are allowed.

Game drives and walks

The animals that can be seen in the Skeleton Coast Park have all adapted in different ways to overcome some of the problems the desert creates. The smaller species such as genet, caracal, baboon, springbok, jackal and brown hyena live in the desert all year round. The larger animals, such as Black rhino, elephant and lion, tend to migrate along the channels in search of food and water. Birders will also be pleasantly surprised by the fact that there are nearly 250 species in the area.

Game drives and nature walks can be organised from Wilderness’s Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp.

Scenic Flying Safari

Fly-in safaris and scenic flights over the Skeleton Coast are the best way to view this beautiful and rugged area and offer guests the best bird’s-eye views of the famous shipwrecks. Scenic Flights can be organised from Wilderness’s Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp.

Schoeman’s Skeleton Coast Safaris also offers multi-day flying safaris that visit three permanent camps set up in unique locations up Namibia’s Skeleton Coast. The first of their camps, Kuidas Camp, is located approximately 20 minutes’ flight north of the Cape Cross Seal Colony. The second, Purros Camp, is two hours further up the coast in the Skeleton Coast Park itself. The final Kunene Camp is right up by the Angolan border on the Kunene River in the far North of the Kunene region.

1. Places to stay….

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp

This Wilderness Camp is scenically located in a broad valley at the confluence of two tributaries of the dry Hoanib River in the northern part of the private Palmwag Concession.

Operating on 100% solar power, the camp comprises eight en-suite tents (including one family unit), each carefully positioned to maximise the afternoon breeze and to take full advantage of the dramatic desert vistas.

Cape Cross Lodge

Cape Cross Lodge is near the Cape Cross Seal Reserve and offers 18 bedrooms and two suites. Four of these rooms have inter-leading doors to create family units, and six are wheelchair accessible. The lodge is built in a mix of Cape Dutch and west coast fishing-village style, within a fully glassed front that frames the beach and the ocean beyond, and lets in plenty of light.