From zip lining through one of South Africa’s largest indigenous forests to eating organic goat’s milk cheese among the rolling green hills, the Midlands has a range of options to appeal to all kinds of travellers.
About the Midlands
Conveniently located between Pietermaritzburg and the Drakensberg and just an hour’s drive from Durban, the KZN Midlands area is home to one of South Africa’s best-known tourist routes – the Midlands Meander. Initially designed to showcase some of the arts and crafts created in the region, it has grown to over 150 members, including cosy country hotels, adventurous activities, restaurants and artisan food producers.
According to KZN Tourism, what makes this area so special is that its climate is markedly different from that of the coastal region. Plenty of rainfall results in lush vegetation, rivers and waterfalls, all of which contribute to the scenic, rural appeal of the destination.
The residents pride themselves on adopting a ‘slow’ approach, in stark contrast to the frenetic pace of urban living. This translates into opportunities to meet local tradesmen and craftspeople one-on-one, while enjoying warm hospitality at local restaurants and hotels.
Things to see
Nelson Mandela capture site
On August 5, 1962, armed apartheid police arrested Nelson Mandela just five kilometres outside of Howick along the R103 after he had evaded capture for 17 months. In 2012, a sculpture was erected at the capture site so that the otherwise unremarkable space could be recognised for the pivotal role it played in shaping South Africa’s history. The sculpture comprises 50 steel columns between six and nine metres high. From the road, the sculpture looks like a series of steel poles but when approaching it from the car park, they merge to create Mandela’s portrait.
For more information, visit www.thecapturesite.co.za.
Arts and crafts galleries
The KZN Midlands has attracted many of the country’s best artists and craftsmen, who enjoy the quieter pace of life and scenic beauty that surrounds them. Visitors have the opportunity to meet many of the artists face-to-face, exploring their studios and galleries and learning more about their craft. From paintings to pottery, leatherwork and ceramics, there is a huge selection to choose from. The Midlands Meander has devised five routes, so that visitors can easily plan their days to include the galleries, workshops and studios that interest them most.
For more information, visit www.midlandsmeander.co.za/explore-the-meander/arts-and-crafts.
Howick Falls
Also known as KwaNogqaza, meaning ‘place of the tall one’, Howick Falls has significant cultural relevance for the local Zulus, who believe that it is the place of the spirits and ancestors and that a giant serpent-like creature lives in the pools at the bottom. The 95-metre-high waterfall cascades down into the Umgeni River. Visitors can enjoy the view from a platform or can hike for about an hour to reach the pools below.
Things to do…
Karkloof Canopy tours
One of the best ways to take in the lush landscape of the Midlands is while zip lining from one platform to the next on the Karkloof Canopy Tour. Set within one of the largest indigenous forests in South Africa, the two-hour tour comprises eight zip lines ranging from 40m to 180m long. The tour begins with a detailed safety briefing delivered by one of the guides after which participants are kitted out with harnesses before setting out for the adventure. Along the way, guides will explain the ecology of the area, pointing out the 20m waterfall and the various birdlife.
For more information, visit www.karkloofcanopytour.co.za.
Karkloof Farmers’ Market
The Midlands has a vibrant artisan food industry, showcased every Saturday between 07h00 and 11h00 at the Karkloof Farmers’ Market. It is located less than 3km from Howick and all produce on sale is sourced from local farmers and producers, with everything from fresh fruit and vegetables, home-baked breads, organic cheese and yoghurt to various confectionary and treats. Visitors have the opportunity to meet the locals and find out more about the products they are buying.
For more information, visit www.karklooffarmersmarket.co.za.
Candle dipping
There are many activities in the area to keep children well entertained but one of the most popular is the Candle Dipping Shop in Nottingham Road. Families, or anyone else for that matter, can learn how to dip and decorate their own candles. Children are supervised, so parents can enjoy lunch in one of the adjacent restaurants.
For more information, visit www.nottiesjunction.co.za/the-candle-dipping-shop.
Mountain biking
The Midlands’ landscape makes for ideal mountain biking terrain. Some of the most well-known trails include Howick, Karkloof and Big Wheel Cycles trails, with over 200km of purpose-built mountain bike single track between these three routes. All are graded in terms of their technical difficulty, so mountain bikers can choose the trails that suit their level of expertise.
For more information, visit www.karkloofmtbtrails.co.za.
Flyfishing
Flyfishing for trout, bass and yellowfish is a popular pastime in the tranquil dams and rivers of the Midlands countryside. Some locations are open to day visitors, including Midmar Resort, St Ives Lodge & Restaurant and Kamberg Resort, while others only allow overnight guests to fish in their waters.
For more information, visit www.midlandsmeander.co.za/fishing.
Places to eat
Piggly Wiggly
This coffee shop is one of the most famous landmarks in the Midlands area – especially as food isn’t the only thing on the menu, as the centre offers a range of activities to keep everyone busy. Traditional coffee shop fare is served along with its award-winning cappuccinos. More hearty meals include pastas and burgers.
For more information, visit www.pigglywiggly.co.za.
Swissland Cheese
Opened in 1992 by Fran Isaac, Swissland Cheese was initially envisaged as an opportunity to introduce South Africa to new cheeses, beyond the traditional cheddar and gouda. It is located among a series of hills, the perfect environment for Isaac’s herd of free-roaming goats, which produce the milk for her famous cheeses, free of antibiotics and colourants. Cheeses range from chèvre to pecorino and visitors can sample these on a picnic on Swissland’s lawns. Milking can be viewed daily between 15h30 and 16h30 between August and May.
For more information, visit www.swisslandcheese.net.
Nicolson’s
Situated on Garlington Estate in Hilton, Nicolson’s is an upmarket restaurant run by husband and wife team, Jonty and Tanya Nicolson. The menu comprises country-style bistro lunches and gourmet dinners. Everything is made from scratch and the restaurant is famous for its soups and homemade reductions and stocks.
For more information, visit http://www.garlington.co.za/amenities/nicolsons-country-cafe/
Nottingham Road Brewery
This small independent brewery is situated at Rawdon’s Hotel and produces naturally brewed lagers and ales. The spring water used in the brewing process is drawn from an artesian well on the premises, which is one of the reasons its range of beers have their distinctive flavour.
For more information, visit http://www.nottsbrewery.co.za/.
